Engine was on table
This is the junk I have taken out from the engine:
piston polishing
assembly
Engine is completely serial P 200 with 12 PS
And few photos from today's playground, I begun some asemblying
today cables, tomorrow wires
22 April 2010
Part 5 , machine and cables
I have so little time to work around my project, but last week I did some things, so to continue ...
Engine was on table
This is the junk I have taken out from the engine:
piston polishing
assembly
Engine is completely serial P 200 with 12 PS
And few photos from today's playground, I begun some asemblying
today cables, tomorrow wires
Engine was on table
This is the junk I have taken out from the engine:
piston polishing
assembly
Engine is completely serial P 200 with 12 PS
And few photos from today's playground, I begun some asemblying
today cables, tomorrow wires
28 March 2010
Part4 - painting
So, this was last picture before painting:
and then:
and some more
Two from profile, almost complete:
and one from below:
and then:
and some more
Two from profile, almost complete:
and one from below:
27 March 2010
Part3 - wider rear tire
So, back on bodywork.
The operation of moving machine, or how to put a wider rear tire on the rear wheel, on the PX, of course.
I had to do it now, because of right kidney, VBA is 3 cm narrower then PX, so I had to fit the machine in chassis, to make right kidney big enough to acommodate px 200 machine.
To begin with, for wider tyre, you need wider rim. If on the standard rim is fitted wider tire, for example 100/90-10 or greater, due to too narrow rim comes to lateral protrusions / distortion of tire that scrapes on clutch cover. There are two inexpensive ways to expand rims. Or aluminum ring between the two halves of the PX rims , or two wider halves of PX rim, where on one half you have to close the valve hole. And then combine into a single wide rim.
For those who have tried to put a wider tire without moving the machine, they noticed that the rear tire is no longer in the center, but moved to the left (viewed from behind). This obviously means that if we want to bring back tire to the center, the machine should be moved to the right. And how much? For the dimension of 110/80-10 tire is enough to move 1 cm. Perhaps even stopped 120/70-10, but for her I'm not sure.
I have chosen 110/80-10 tire, just enough wider then 3,50-10 standard to looks juicier as I like. Not to say that the wet drifts are easier to catch, and the feeling of driving the curves is way better.
So, to perform the operation to start is good to have a new selenium blocks (thats how we call them, don't know why)
view on the bridge
To start I will cut one selenium exactly 1 cm
Since the pipe of selenium stretches out 5 mm from engine carrier, you should shorten the bridge only 7 mm, 2 mm more to have clearance between chassis and aluminum block
looks like this after cutting
Easiest way to put new selen blocks in the bridge is to push them with threaded bar and two wide washers and grease.
Look of "shortened" side
The other side, at the bottom can be seen the washer I made, exactly 1 cm thick, which I will plant on the right side
This is the way how it will be fitted
And this is the result:
The operation of moving machine, or how to put a wider rear tire on the rear wheel, on the PX, of course.
I had to do it now, because of right kidney, VBA is 3 cm narrower then PX, so I had to fit the machine in chassis, to make right kidney big enough to acommodate px 200 machine.
To begin with, for wider tyre, you need wider rim. If on the standard rim is fitted wider tire, for example 100/90-10 or greater, due to too narrow rim comes to lateral protrusions / distortion of tire that scrapes on clutch cover. There are two inexpensive ways to expand rims. Or aluminum ring between the two halves of the PX rims , or two wider halves of PX rim, where on one half you have to close the valve hole. And then combine into a single wide rim.
For those who have tried to put a wider tire without moving the machine, they noticed that the rear tire is no longer in the center, but moved to the left (viewed from behind). This obviously means that if we want to bring back tire to the center, the machine should be moved to the right. And how much? For the dimension of 110/80-10 tire is enough to move 1 cm. Perhaps even stopped 120/70-10, but for her I'm not sure.
I have chosen 110/80-10 tire, just enough wider then 3,50-10 standard to looks juicier as I like. Not to say that the wet drifts are easier to catch, and the feeling of driving the curves is way better.
So, to perform the operation to start is good to have a new selenium blocks (thats how we call them, don't know why)
view on the bridge
To start I will cut one selenium exactly 1 cm
Since the pipe of selenium stretches out 5 mm from engine carrier, you should shorten the bridge only 7 mm, 2 mm more to have clearance between chassis and aluminum block
looks like this after cutting
Easiest way to put new selen blocks in the bridge is to push them with threaded bar and two wide washers and grease.
Look of "shortened" side
The other side, at the bottom can be seen the washer I made, exactly 1 cm thick, which I will plant on the right side
This is the way how it will be fitted
And this is the result:
23 March 2010
+ 
21 March 2010
Start
Hi all.
I am Vespa owner for 23 years, from Croatia, country that is very close to Italy, so Vespa is a common mean of transportation for us.
Always wanted a perfect vespa, but somehow Piaggio never produced one model that was perfect for my taste. Even LML is going in better direction. So after collecting everything that was needed, I started to produce my precious.
Here are general rules that I decided to follow:
For start to use the perfect chassis with no shift in the structure, strong enough that can handle the 200 plus ccm without any problems.
External appearance of the chassis will be like VBA model, which is "almost perfect", except for that hump under the seat, that I will smooth in the direction of the old "wide body" model.
Vespa will have a turn lights (it will be registered as PX), but not as ugly as on the PX.
The appearance of the kidneys and tail will go in the direction of http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3045/vespadesktop.jpg.
The front end will keep the look of VBA, except front mudguard, that must be reworked to fit the PX fork with disc. I will use the hidraulic pump in the front compartment, and steering remains original, cast in one piece.
The front compartment required, as well as that of the left kidney.
I think I will use the standard 200 machine with a sito+ , possibly malossi clutch, the machine must move 1 cm to the right, so I can use a wide rear tire.
A single seat, I'll do it myself.
So, I started with PX chassis in good condition. Cut her arse, and fitted VBA-s in that place. I will use vba cowls, that will be modified in "struzzo" direction.
Sandblasted chassis with cowls
Tail from profile, you got the picture where it's going
one "alltogether", vith not yet modified cowls, but horn in place, and tail fitted, and with finished front mudguard
When I look at my project, for nonexpert, my vespa will also look like an ordinary vespa, nothing so special about her. Difference will be in the details ...
To continue with process
As a base I am using PX frame that has never been crashed. I cut off her ugly tail before sandblasting ...
I also have a VBA from 1959 that was horror, but I cut off her tail, horn piece , front mudguard and cowls, and I am combining that pieces with PX frame.
Everything is welded together, so don't worry
from profile
from behind
front
I am Vespa owner for 23 years, from Croatia, country that is very close to Italy, so Vespa is a common mean of transportation for us.
Always wanted a perfect vespa, but somehow Piaggio never produced one model that was perfect for my taste. Even LML is going in better direction. So after collecting everything that was needed, I started to produce my precious.
Here are general rules that I decided to follow:
For start to use the perfect chassis with no shift in the structure, strong enough that can handle the 200 plus ccm without any problems.
External appearance of the chassis will be like VBA model, which is "almost perfect", except for that hump under the seat, that I will smooth in the direction of the old "wide body" model.
Vespa will have a turn lights (it will be registered as PX), but not as ugly as on the PX.
The appearance of the kidneys and tail will go in the direction of http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3045/vespadesktop.jpg.
The front end will keep the look of VBA, except front mudguard, that must be reworked to fit the PX fork with disc. I will use the hidraulic pump in the front compartment, and steering remains original, cast in one piece.
The front compartment required, as well as that of the left kidney.
I think I will use the standard 200 machine with a sito+ , possibly malossi clutch, the machine must move 1 cm to the right, so I can use a wide rear tire.
A single seat, I'll do it myself.
So, I started with PX chassis in good condition. Cut her arse, and fitted VBA-s in that place. I will use vba cowls, that will be modified in "struzzo" direction.
Sandblasted chassis with cowls
Tail from profile, you got the picture where it's going
one "alltogether", vith not yet modified cowls, but horn in place, and tail fitted, and with finished front mudguard
When I look at my project, for nonexpert, my vespa will also look like an ordinary vespa, nothing so special about her. Difference will be in the details ...
To continue with process
As a base I am using PX frame that has never been crashed. I cut off her ugly tail before sandblasting ...
I also have a VBA from 1959 that was horror, but I cut off her tail, horn piece , front mudguard and cowls, and I am combining that pieces with PX frame.
Everything is welded together, so don't worry
from profile
from behind
front
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)